Arriving in Lubango
Landing in Lubango was a completely different experience from Luanda.
For one, arriving at a new destination in the wee hours of the morning can be slightly intimidating – and so it was for me when I touched down at Luanda airport. My arrival in Lubango during the day allowed me to adjust, more readily, to my new surroundings. Also, my sense of curiosity and anxiety is now replaced with a keen sense of adventure.
Instead of the concrete and bustle of city life in Luanda, I am now surrounded by nature’s beauty - mountains, hills and greenery as far as the eye could see. Stepping out of the small airport, I took in the fresh air and felt the sun beating down upon my face. I am enjoying Lubango – particularly the beautiful scenery and landscapes.
Lubango, for the uninitiated, is the capital city of the Angolan province of Huila. Population – approximately 100,000 – plus 1 now – me!
Centro Evangelico de Medicina do Lubango (CEML)
Located about 7 kilometres from Lubango, the CEML is situated on top of one of the hills. Driving up to the centre, once can view the city below – at night, it is a peaceful scene to behold – all lit up.
The CEML is a medical centre opened in 2006 and currently has over 40 beds. It has an outpatient clinic and also provides inpatient care in the areas of obstetrics, general surgery, ophthalmology and pediatric care. The CEML also has a rural clinic in Kalukembe, approximately 130 kilometres from Lubango, that provides medical services to an extremely poor and isolated community.
The Centre is staffed by Canadian physicians now living in Angola and assisted by visting short-term medical resources from Canada and the U.S.
I have been here only a few days now but my experience has been phenomenal! The kind of medicine I have been exposed to so far is very, very different from the kind of ailments you would encounter in a North American clinic. Here, there are few layers to separate you from the patients. So, every available and capable resource is fully engaged. It is an awesome experience.
Dentistry in Lubango
A dentist? Really? There are no dentists in these parts of Lubango, but right now, there are two Brazilian dentists volunteering here at the CEML and so it is fulfilling to see long line-ups of young and old waiting patiently to take advantage of the available dental care.
Some treatments take over an hour, but the people still wait – patiently - for hours. When they leave the treatment room, there are always big and fresh smiles :) Such a joy to behold!
Rainfall
When it rains, it pours. Currently, although we are in midst of the rainy season in Angola, we haven't had much rain so far. But when it did rain a few days ago, it was a constant downpour. We were surrounded by the resounding roar of thunder while monstrous dark clouds raged at mind-boggling speeds. This was our warning about 20 minutes before the first drops hit the ground. And when it started, everyone ran for cover because within minutes the ground was soaked and puddles had started to form. For me, the city guy, this was a new experience and the fresh drops of water hitting my face were nothing short of refreshing.
Sunset
Absolutely stunning. Beyong description. Initially a blue sky turns, in succession, first indigo, then red, and finally this stunning mix of orange and yellow. Imagine, trees in the distance below majestic mountains, a rapidly dropping sun and this palate of colour in the sky. My mind forgot all about the downpour minutes before. The beauty atop this hill is just magnificent!!!
Taxis or Public Transport?
Any distance traveled only costs 50 Angolan Kwanzas. Public transport here is very different – it is not a long bus and it is not a private car taxi or a van. It is a combination!! Picture this - the bus-cum-taxi holds up to 14 people – all with seatbelts! However, the taxi I took this weekend held, at times, 16 people. In this case, the additional two people - one passenger and the fare collector - remained standing against the door. Quite the experience.
To get a taxi, you need to wave it down from anywhere on the street side There are no designated taxi stands or stops, so every few minutes the taxi stops to pick up more passengers. It is quite the experience sitting in the back of a taxi with music blaring while the driver speeds across an uneven and bumpy road. It is even more of an experience when you find yourself to be the centre of attention - similar to a tourist attraction - because you are a foreigner.
Open Market
I feel like I’m this freak show at the circus – all eyes just seem to be glued in my direction! Everyone must get a glimpse! It is unusual to find foreigners walking around the city or climbing into a taxi. So traveling with others is definitely a smart idea. When I entered the open market, my eyes started to water with blowing dust and dirt, my nose received a gust of urine mixed with burning diesel, and my ears rattled from the deafening rumbling of motorcycle engines. Litter and broken slippers clutter the dry dirt-road streets. Stores sell almost everything imaginable - fresh fruits, cellphone covers, phone credits, stereo systems, foam mattresses and more. There are also numerous people trying to exchange Angolan Kwanzas for US Dollars. Stores are set up in large, old storage crates - once used to transport materials across the waters. Vendors call out and try to get your attention, and although I understand most of their Portuguese comments, I decide to do the wise thing – keep on walking - I’m not quite ready to engage. The market experience was quite unique.
On the Road to Namibe
Only pictures, if even, can do justice to the natural beauty on the 3.5 hour drive from Lubango to Namibe. This city is on the coast of the South Atlantic Ocean with amazing beaches and crashing waves sometimes reaching up to 5-feet. On the well-paved road, we passed cliffs and valleys, winding back-and-forth through the majestic mountains.
Continuing further, we drove by oil drilling sites, stone quarries and open, barren deserts. Finally at Namibe, I watched the sun set while I dove into the waves of the South Atlantic Ocean. On the drive back, we spent about 20 minutes singing and dancing with local children under the moonlit sky. The smiles on their faces are a treat and their enthusiatic singing and dancing is definitely infectious.
Angola is a beautiful country. The people here are pleasant, happy and joyful. I have learned, both at CEML and in the city, that everyone has a story to tell.
No matter how preoccupied someone may be, there is always time to greet you with kindness and warmth.
No matter how many challenges they are facing, there is always time for a laugh.
No matter what the living conditions or how difficult the life is for the people here, there is usually a smile on every face.
So I say, to end this post... For 2009 and the years to come, let us all make an effort to share a laugh, exchange a warm greeting, and keep a smiling face.
